Finally, Working Again!

 It has been a very dry period of getting any minis done, as we have had to cancel our weekly get-togethers for a month or so. Marilyn of Charminis was suffering from mini withdrawal, so although our other co-mini-ist Louise was unavailable, we just had to get together.

I had the good luck over the weekend of finding a bag of small plastic Easter eggs in a charity shop, an item I'd been looking for for a while, as I needed them to make lampshades for my wooden shoe factory.

I used the rounder end of the plastic eggs, but as they had a thin rim on them, I cut narrow strips of cardboard (found in between layers of cat food tins), to fill the gaps. The centre was then drilled with my pin vise to create an opening for the wired bulbs, and the hole enlarged a bit with a round rat-tail file. (The upper, more pointy end of the eggs might make good bee-hives, with the addition of rope or raffia to mimic the straw old skeps were usually made of.)

Three eggs have their strips, glued on the plastic with Aleene's Jewel Glue, held by tiny copper clamps. I pre-bend the strips by rolling over them, on my thigh, with the round handle of my Xacto knife.

The egg halves had small air holes in them, which I plugged with toothpick bits or the ends of bamboo skewers; then I sanded them flush to the surface of the eggs with an emery board. The yellow half shows the hole, the green one a plugged hole.  They were then lightly sanded with a sandpaper sponge, and given a coat of multi-purpose sealer. This was then allowed to dry while I had some lunch and awaited Marilyn's arrival.

I stuck toothpicks in the eggs to use as handles while painting them. First, I lightly sanded the surface to provide something for the paint to grab on to. The first paint was a gel one, which did not adhere at all on the plastic surface. However, plain black paint covered with no problem. When I first used an Easter egg half to make a lamp shade, we used nail polish to colour them, but I wanted worn, slightly dusty and rusty metal shades, as my wooden shoe workshop is set in the last decade of the 19th century.

Multiple coats of dry-brushed gray, terra cotta, burnt umber and pewter paint resulted in just what I had envisioned when I started the project. The little brass bell will become the top of the shade, just as soon as I found where I "hid" the others....

The last stage will be to paint the insides a dirty white - well, the workshop produces lots of sawdust, coal dust, and so on, so the inside would not be pristine. I intend to use LED lights already on their wires as the light bulbs, threading them first through the plastic shade, then through the aged little bells, and finally through a length of fine brass tube. The wires will then have to go over the top of the workshop and down again to under the stairs, where the batteries will hide. One section of stairs will be removable so allow access to the batteries - I hope!

Now to let everything dry, then I will finish the insides of the lampshades.

A Few Things for the Christmas Stall

It's not all that much, but I did make a few little things yesterday afternoon during our mini get-together; a crate of pine cones, and one of moss balls, as well as some tinsel packages. It is slow going; however, the shops here are started to sell Christmas items, which means I have to go into town at least once a week to see what I can use of the new arrivals in making minis. I need to go down the trail behind my house and pick some more alder cones.

Today I picked up another box of laser-cut mini ornaments. I already have one, but there were a lot of small pieces that can be used in miniature, as standing decor items. Also, Louise had pointed out to me a set of three very fine bead chains, that will fit very nicely on a miniature Christmas wreath or garland. A few more cut-outs are waiting to be assembled, as well as some tiny wooden and beaded figurines in the making.

And what is this, you might wonder? I had shown Marilyn a companion piece to the wooden shoe workshop, a candle workshop from the same historical era. The workshops are two of a series in the Dutch magazine, Poppenhuizen en Miniaturen, that ran in 1999. I have only two of these, the klompenmakerij and the candle factory. They were all designed to fit into the same basic room box, just individually designed; the very first one was a school. 

This is a table that held the dipped, paired candles to allow them to harden. It is in a new state, as I would likely age the piece when (or if!) I get an opportunity to build that room box as well. I had another birthday this week, and this is my birthday gift from Marilyn. The rods are removable, and fit across the beams which are also removable. (The candle factory photo in the magazine is very dark and dreary-looking, as it likely would have been.) The tray is also loose. But I MUST finish the many projects I currently have on the go first!

The floor of the market stall has been painted; beige with cream and pale green spatters. The shelves have been cut, and will soon be installed, but I need the Carpenter-in-Chief's assistance with the shelves and screwing the MDF building together. In the meantime, I can make shop stock.

 

There's a Lot of Stuff to Finish....

 

The fourth Serendipity rug is finished; I think it has something of a Victorian air, perhaps due to its colours.

Fiddly, but I've been saving a printie of these boxes for years; they are from the December 1996 issue of Nutshell News, and I think I need two more copies. They're fiddly, but if you follow the instructions carefully (!), they go together quite well. I need more small beads for ornaments....

The Dutch door is now glued into the back wall of the wooden shoe workshop; although it won't really show, I needed to fix it securely in order to prevent it swinging open (and breaking off) if the workshop is ever displayed. (I'm feeling a "bit" worried that there will ever be shows again.)

And a few "fancy" tree ornaments, which I hope to display on a hanging rack on the inside of the door to the Christmas market stall. I have still to design a sensible rack, and many more ornaments need to be made. I wonder where I can find bags of mixed beads? This may be a chance to roam around a few second-hand shops, although I am worried about getting Covid; I'm due for a booster, but they are currently only giving booster to seniors in nursing home settings, and to people with underlying conditions. And winter is coming....

Well-Worn Stairs

The stairs are painted and distressed; for the distressing, I used a tack hammer, a pointy rock from the patio, a sponge sander, emery board, and a small screwdriver, with occasional applications of the back edge of my Xacto knife.

Our local Michaels is now carrying a limited supply of MidWest basswood, and although they didn't have the thickness my project called for, the sander belonging to the Carpenter-in-Chief thinned the pieces just right to make the last five stair treads. I hope the store carries more of this product, as it is way better than the stuff they carried the past several years!

We are still scratching our heads as to how to have a part of the steps open, in order to replace batteries on the eventual lighting, the wires etc. of which I'd really like to hide there. There is a real dearth of miniature, vintage industrial lighting fixtures available, which means I'll have to create my own from scratch. I need four hanging lights, and one wall sconce in a cage for the stairway wall. I also have no idea how many LED lights can run off a coin battery, nor how long such a battery would last with five LED bulbs on it.

Now the risers and treads need a varnish coat, and once that is dry, an application of antiquing gel to bring out the dents and scratches. Once the stairs are glued in place, I can dirty up the wall and the corners to look well used, and perhaps not all that carefully cleaned....

 

Three Little Serendipity Rugs or Mats

So far, I have completed three small rugs using scraps of needlepoint canvas (24ct) and loose and odd threads drawn from a left-overs pile in my embroidery supplies.

The first one is varieties of browns, creams and greys accented with assorted rust shades. It has a very mid-century modern feel to it, I think. Some of the stripes were worked with a blended needle, i.e. two strands of different colours. If you choose closely related colours, the end result can appear to be a single colour; however, if you use contrasting colours, the effect is that of tweed.

The middle one I call Denim Blues; that was the starting point, and is also a little like a rag mat we have in our powder room. It has accents of thin red stripes on various blues and greys. The size of this one would make it work nicely in many eras, from an updated bath to a servant's bedroom.

The far one is Graphic Greens, and is the most planned of the three. I pulled out many shades of green for this one, then bordered each one with a deep, nearly black green. It is definitely a modern rug.

The problem is, of course, that in my part of the world most people live and breathe Victorian miniatures, so finding a buyer for these in my small circle of miniaturists is likely going to be very difficult indeed!

Most of my stairs for the wooden shoe workshop are ready to attach, but I am trying to come up with a way to make a section of them removable. That would allow me to hide the lighting batteries and wires very neatly, and allow good access to them when the batteries need replacing. I chose a dark red-brown colour to paint the stairs, the colour I remember our stairs in Maastricht being; they dated to before WWI, thus fitting neatly into the period of my workshop.

 

The Next Big Step....

 ....involves the staircase. 

I had ordered the wood for this months ago, during the height of the pandemic, and when it arrived one of the pieces I needed was very badly warped, as well as stained. This happened at the factory, as the package itself was dry and unstained. While I was out this morning, the Carpenter-in-Chief contacted the manufacturer, with a photo, and new wood is on the way to replace the damaged piece. At least, I can begin sanding, painting, aging and distressing the pieces I do have.

When we started this project, the C-in-C wanted to know where the heck this stairway was going, did I really need it? Well, it goes to an imaginary second story/attic, so I will attempt to paint the illusion of a dark opening in the "ceiling", to suggest that. After all, I need that staircase to hide the privy under, and perhaps also the eventual electrics!

So, as those among you who do embroidery for their dolls' houses know, you end up with an awful lot of tiny pieces of canvas. Along with those, I have a massive lifetime collection of embroidery floss. I like to think of this as a Serendipity project; making something from left-overs, essentially. The tangle of floss represents left-overs from kits, threads I can no longer match to their skeins, floss my children used when they wanted to learn embroidery, and so forth. And the first result is the "modern" rug in the centre. This one is done, ready to have the hems turned. It was worked on 24ct canvas, with 2 strands of floss; some of the stripes have two colours in the needle, which gives a subtle, tweed effect.

A small project like this is handy to carry around. Basically, I decide on a colour scheme, pull all the various bits of those colours from the tangle, and stitch away. The next one is intended to be a rag rug, the sort you use in front of the kitchen sink (or in the bedrooms of your servants!), in blues and greys.

This one, in brown tones, may fit into my Trash-to-Treasure Loft Project, as it pulls from the natural shades in that little vignette. But if we ever get back to having shows again, I may also try to sell it.

Tomorrow I begin sanding the treads and risers of my staircase....

The Last Straw....

 ....went in this afternoon and the roof is now fully "reeded".

The slot for the half wall fits perfectly, and now all that has to happen is for the beam to be glued into place. (I held it in place with a finger for the photo below.)

I had to bend down at a very odd angle to take this photo of the reeded roof! Anyone who wants to see it when the room box is completed will have to be able to bend, or use a mirror. It seems a little silly to do all this work, when it will be pretty much invisible. However, like the fully beamed ceilings in my Tudor Merchant's house, I will know that I actually made the ceilings look real!

There is very little left over from the corn whisk that provided the reeds. I was a little concerned that there wouldn't be enough pre-cut reeds to finish the last row. The Carpenter-in-Chief actually went to his workshop and brought out the corn whisk he inherited from his father's workshop - it comes with a holder for the wall - and said if I needed it, I could have a few pieces of his corn whisk, but that he didn't want me to completely cut it up....

Fortunately, it was not necessary to cut anything out of his whisk, but it was a very kind offer!

Next up, the stairs and the lighting. I will need help with both of those!

Three Rows Done, and a Lucky Thought....

Three of the rows are done, only five more to go! To the left of the pencil is a (difficult to see) rectangle drawn on the yellow strip. At some point last night I woke up, and suddenly remembered that there was a wall somewhere in there; did the reeds have to be interrupted? So I taped the ceiling to the room box and realized, yes indeed, there is the half-width wall between the toilet/sink corridor and the workshop proper. I had taken it out a week or more ago....

Whew! Glad that popped into my brain before I had to cut a section of reeds out. I'll have to cut the broom straw to size there, as I'll need to mask the area of the wall with a scrap piece of wood. It will be fiddly, for sure. However, having gone this far, I may as well continue on, right?

 

There's Glue Everywhere!

Those of who who work with tacky glues know that that stuff gets everywhere! I decided to keep a damp sponge handy while gluing the first row of "straw" down onto my roof. As you can see, you can only work a very small section at a time - the area with the white glue - and you have to hold it down as you wait for the glue to work. To speed things up, I decided to use the extra thick, extra quick stuff.

Yes, it works, but you also glue your fingers to the straw, very quickly. So then you wash them on your sponge, and you go back to holding on to your straw. As the broom straw is NOT straight or flat, it tends to want to move and/or stick to itself as you manoeuvre it into place, which is apparently easier when being manipulated by damp fingers....

I will try to do one row a day, at least! Once the stuff is really dry, I can trim it to fit the beam, using a very sharp scalpel blade to get a clean cut. Then it is on to fitting the next beam, trimming if necessary where it sits on the slanted beam, and gluing it into place. It needs an hour or more to really dry well.

This will obviously take a while, but I am determined!

 

Preparing the Beamed Ceiling

The first thing you have to do to prepare a beamed, reeded ceiling is to mark on your ceiling plate where the beams are intended to go. The Carpenter-in-Chief undertook to do this for me this morning, as I am very straight-line challenged.

Then you tape off the areas where the beams are going to go, and put a seal coat on those sections. I am "thrifty", so re-used the same pieces of masking tape for the whole thing. Well, I'll admit it, I am very low on masking tape, and we have had a severe thunderstorm warning, which means I do not want to make the drive into town! As my room box carcass is MDF, a seal coat is needed as that stuff just drinks the paint.

That done, you proceed to put ochre paint in the areas where the reeds (corn broom cuttings) will go, and the area above the toilet and the stairs in white. The painted areas have to dry before you can do the next sections of tape. It all takes time....

Once all the sections are painted, I can glue down the first beam; this will be under the piece of masking tape, next to the right-hand wall of the room-box. And once that beam is securely glued, I begin to glue on the pre-cut pieces of broom corn. Then the reeds are trimmed to fit, and the next beam is glued in place, and the whole process starts over again, for nine beams and eight areas of reed "thatch".

I will just go ahead and work away, then. 

 

Some Further Progress, But No Saws Yet...

Marilyn at Charminis and I did have a virtual meeting yesterday, and I did get some prep work done for the wooden shoe factory. As the saws are still in the Research & Development phase - I can't mimic the teeth of the saws well enough to my taste - I did some boring but necessary work towards the roof for the workshop.

The beams at the right had to be notched, individually, at the far end in order to fit into the angle of the beams on the slanted roof section, a job which required a saw, a sharp knife, a file, sandpaper and a fair bit of patience as well as trepidation, as I was cutting along the narrow end of an angle and worried about breaking the thin part of the angle off. But it is done,they fit, and they are stained and numbered and ready to install.

The stumpy thing with the yellow end is what is left of the corn whisk broom that I have been dismantling  to make the reeds for the roof; they are all cut into 2" (5 cm) sections ready to be glued between the roof beams.

That is a job which should take a while, and hopefully I will be able to come up with a method of making saws that I can live with! One has teeth on both edges, while the other is a large curved saw, with teeth along the curves. 

 

More Progress on the Wooden Shoe Factory

The interior windows are in; I was able to use my circle cutter to make the missing window glass up, although I will admit it took 3 tries to get it right. The homemade window glass is in the hallway window, but it is indistinguishable from the rest!  However, confession time, I pushed it too hard into the frame and, you guessed it, wrecked the frame. But, I (fairly calmly) glued the broken wooden half-circle trim back together, let it dry, and then replaced each of the three glazing bars, one at a time, with lots of drying time in between.

There are a couple of new items; the carving brake (I don't know what to call it, it is the workbench thing the wooden shoes in the making are clamped into) is done except for a long, thin knife that I have to figure out how to create. The knife is looped into an eye that allows it to lift and swivel. I think it is a kind of shaving knife to shape the surface of the shoes.

Yes, I carved those shoes, they are rough because they are in the process of being made. (They're also the first attempt ever by me to carve wooden shoes!) Also in the workshop now is the large chopping block; as the wood was cut this spring (apple, I think), it is quite "juicy" and usually sits on top of several layers of paper towel in the hope of drawing the juice out. It smells nice, though!

Marilyn gave me the dark blue enamel coffee pot, and next to it on the hot plate is a fat little tea kettle. A  bottle of milk stands ready. Still to come are sugar, mugs, and packages of tea and coffee. The gas tank has a label, made from a chain link with a red-painted centre. Next to the table and stove is a wood box.

Now I have to figure out how to make a large two-man saw with a curved toothed edge; my thin printing plate metal won't be strong enough for this, so I may have to cut it from a sheet of thin aluminum. With scissors. Which I use left-handed even though they are right-handed scissors. And I will need to file the teeth.....

A miniaturist's work is never-ending and always challenging!

 

I Had to See What It Would Look Like

Not much time to work on minis today, but I did put nails into the walls to hang up some of the tools; I just had to see what it might eventually look like....

 

Doors and Windows Fit! Finally...

It took a whole day, but the door finally fits as it is supposed to. We still can't figure out what the problem was, aside from the paper clay that wrapped the sides of the buttresses, but even with that gone, the door would only go in on a slant, top to bottom. The sides of the door were shaved just a little, but the threshold kept moving, making it near impossible to make the thing go into the prepared opening in a straight, proper manner. Then it suddenly fit....

The door will be framed on the back of the room box with plain painted boards, as that side is not likely to be visible. I hope that the door will stay closed when the box is picked up, and if not, I'll have to fix a barrier across the back. The last thing I want is for the door to break if I ever get to display at a show again.

The window "glass" is still missing, so I'm going to try to cut a new one from plexiglass, using a circle cutter I acquired years ago, primarily for cardboard. I'm hoping that scoring the half circle will make it possible to knock the half-round window pane out with a  minimum of trouble. The windows all have arches for the back side, although another one has snapped; that will be glued up overnight. They tend to break at the base of the arch, on the grain of the wood.

That blank wall on the left is crying for some of the tools to be hung up; perhaps I'll hammer in some tiny nails tomorrow. I say hammer in, but in fact I drill the holes and then glue the nails in with a tacky glue/super glue double dip. The ones I put in months ago have stayed put so far.

 

Just When You Think You're On Your Way!

Well, I did finish the hot plate and propane tank, although I still need to dirty up the tank, as it looks far too new right now.  A few rusty spots and a nice brass label ought to improve that situation.

However - the door won't fit, apparently the frame is now a little too wide for the buttress wall. That means I have to sand the paper clay sides down until the door fits. I had hoped to carefully insert the door from the top of the wall, but....somehow, it won't come off any more! I removed the screws holding it in place, and can only assume that I allowed the wood glue for the paper clay wall to get under the wood of the fake slanted roof wall. Sigh! Or perhaps it is the paper clay that caused the problem. Oh well, back to the drawing board....

I've also managed to mislay/lose one of the half-round window plexiglass pieces, despite being oh-so-careful in storing them in their original packages. The Carpenter-in-Chief says it is probably on my work table or in that general area somewhere, but I despair just a little: my garbage can is a bit  too close, and the garbage went to the dump already. I might be able to cut a new plexiglass window, as I do have a circle cutter. I hope I still have lots of thin plexiglass to experiment with.

The tea kettle could also stand a little evidence of use, and I should probably add an enamel-ware coffee pot. Other than that, the outside of the room box has been painted, the roof panel has been cut, and when I have had a good cup of tea I'll attempt to transfer the beam layout to the roof. Then I can get all gluey putting broom straw in place.

Someday, I will finish this project!

 

Oops, I Did It Again....

It takes me far too much time to get up the courage to do certain things, and one of those things was to do the remaining stucco walls for the wooden shoe workshop. Yesterday, I decided enough was enough, and I put stucco on the remaining walls. 

Only the wall holding the stove needed doing, but the chimney of that stove is made of a plastic drinking straw, dowel, and cardboard. It was difficult to get it to stand straight, as I was worried about messing up the paint job if I tried to bend the straw in a bit. I said a prayer or two, stuck my tongue in the corner of my mouth, and just did it. 

Today, I did some small touch-ups, like filling in a little paper clay around the chimney where it goes into the wall. That dried quickly enough that I was able to paint this afternoon. And I will explain the oops for this entry; I forgot to allow a clear space for the beam at the top of the wall, which meant I had to cut, pry and sand the dry paper clay just as I had to do with the corner of the dividing wall. Guess I didn't learn.....

The floor in this part will be painted rather than done with dry wall compound, as miniature things have no weight whatsoever and would not stand straight on what would undoubtedly have been an uneven floor. The sealer will go on today, and I'll try to get the painting done tomorrow. The doors and windows haven't been placed yet, they are where they're supposed to go only. In order to install the door between the buttresses, I have to take the slanted beam and reed wall section off. That will happen probably after the floor is done. And I just realized that the door would have been difficult to open on a floor that was even a tiny bit higher than the bottom of the door....

The walls will be dirtied and aged once the floor is painted. Stay tuned!

Got Some Work Done Toay

The sun came out, it was dry, and it was warm enough to finish spraying the stove for the wooden shoe factory.

Taken at an angle, obviously, and the metal plate to go into the wall is still on the kitchen counter. In order to dry the piece, I pushed a branch from the apple tree through the stove, which dislodged the pencil sharpener inside! Serendipitous happening....

The stove being done, I can now stucco the remaining walls of the wooden shoe factory, yeay!

I also did a dry run - minus most of the foliage and all of the goldenrod - for the first flower arrangement I am working on. It is obvious that I'll have to cut down on the number of flowers in the arrangement; a miniaturised floral piece is simply not big enough to be an exact copy. It has to fit into a small basket, and I need to find my tiny lead fishing weights to hold that down, before I do the planting. Also, I still have to "invent" goldenrod flowers.

At least I was able to get some miniature work done again!

 

Working on the Workshop Stove

We were unable to get together for our virtual meeting last week, but we are having two meetings this week. Today's meeting was another virtual one, and I did a little more work on the workshop, assembling a more convincing stove and a brick platform for it to stand on.

The actual stove is a pencil sharpener, in pot metal, with a sort of bronze-brown finish. First of all, I had to take the little conical cap off the pipe at the back; this has been replaced by a new pipe made from a bendy drinking straw, a piece of dowel to reinforce both the long pipe and the curved top, strips of manila file folder for the joins, and eventually a washer for the fitting in the wall. The flashing on the stove's lid was removed with files and an emery board. The stove will stand on a brick base, to make it more fireproof.

Now I have to wait for all the various glues to dry; I used the pot metal, a plastic straw, card, and wooden dowel, so several kinds of glue were used. The one that takes the longest to cure is the metal glue to re-glue the bent pipe from the back of the little stove on to the stove again; it broke off when the cone was being sawed off. Then I get to paint it; right now, spray paint seems the best way to do it, but it is very cold here and I can't spray paint in the house; I may have to make a spray booth out of a cardboard box, and use the storage area in the basement....

When this is all dry, I can test-fit it into the wooden shoe workshop, to see where it is best placed; I kind of want it in the centre of the right side wall, but it may interfere with the space needed for all the shoe-carving equipment. I also have to mark its position on the wall, before I put the paper clay stucco on.

We are having a rare face-to-face meeting this Friday, weather permitting, as we are currently in a favourable phase with regard to the pandemic. I am not sure what I will manage to get done that day, as we are sharing some of our supplies to continue work on our various projects. Those will be dug out tomorrow, ready for my fellow miniaturists to check out.

 

The Back Wall Is In Place!

OK. I haven't been posting that much, because I will admit it took some courage to tackle this large back wall of the wooden shoe factory. However, after doing the right back corner section, I realized it would be much easier to do all the rest at once, and I decided today was the day.

It didn't take as long as I feared it would; I worked in 10 cm (4") wide sections from floor to slanted beam, and it looks as if it just might work. There is some unevenness where the sections join, but I can likely sand that into shape and use paint to sort the rest. The dividing wall slots nicely into place in the space left for it; I used a scrap  piece of wood during the stuccoing process to keep it clear of the paper clay.

Now that that wall is done - well, except for painting and aging - I can decide where to place my little pot-belly stove, which warms the workshop on cold days. I have a metal pencil sharpener stove for this purpose, but think it should really stand on a brick base, rather than right on the tamped "clay" floor. I also have to decide where to place it; the original has it in the right back corner, but I think it would warm the space better if it was in the centre of the side wall. 

The stove requires piping, and that involves cutting off the metal top in order to add a section to go into the wall. It will also require a fitting on the wall, which I will have to work around when I put the paper clay stucco on that wall. I can't do the floor until I have the walls in place, but I can probably place the windows and the door. That should make it look much closer to finishing!

I am going to assemble two magnolia bushes destined for the planters of the flower shop this afternoon, provided the stink of burning plastic disappears! It looks like the built-in vacuum cleaner has just died...

What Happens If You Don't Think

This morning, I tested the long slanted roof section of the wooden shoe factory, after having finally glued in the buttresses and the toilet block. The roof section wouldn't fit! Scratching my head, I decided I didn't think ahead well enough; the thickness of the paper clay stucco on the hallway wall took up a good 1/8" of space (approx. 3 mm) . Not a huge measurement in the common run of things, but it makes a big difference in 1/12th scale!

Scary! I had to trim back the finished stucco, and hope I didn't chip things too badly. It is all to the better that I discovered this now, as I will have to do the same thing in the corner of the workshop, and it would have been a lot more difficult to chip away in that confined space. The dividing wall hasn't been glued in place yet, as I still have to do the "clay" floors. It was, therefore, fairly easy to lay it flat on my worktable and slice and sand away.

Lots of dust mess, minimal chipping of the rest of the wall(whew!), and now it fits. But, I wasn't thinking ahead again, and I knocked two of the little coat pegs out of the other side of the wall. Sigh! Now I will put those back in place, which involves Superglue, and that item and I do not have a good working relationship....